SO THIS takes us all back
around to the Smoothrock Lake fish camp trip.
This is now the annual tradition that started way back in 1982. I’ve written about this many times before in
my blog and various books. August 8th
came like a thief in the night, silently, unexpectedly, and without a lot of
prodroma. I woke up at my Enemy Swim Lake cabin on the 7th after
hearing a short-eared owl outside, a year bird, and drove to our home,
mowed my vacant lot, completed the closing and rental of my ranch, drove to my RV, found the rest of my stuff, went to bed, got up early, drive to my dad’s place, packed a car, and started the
long drive to northern Ontario.
What would happen this year? There were no forgotten passports or expired
ones this year. Things were going well. The border guard looked at us funny and asked
“are you with the guys ahead of you?”
Taking the lead, I quickly quipped. “It depends on what they have done.” She smiled and then asked how much alcohol we
had.
My friend Jeff Rapp parroted the rehearsed tally. “Four liters of booze, a case of beer and a
bottle of wine.”
“I see you aren’t the drinkers of the group.” It turned out the other pickup with four
adults in ti had 10 liters of booze and other assorted liquors and my boat
partner Greg doesn’t even drink. They
got a $94 USD fine for the duty on this hoard of spirits at customs. At least we didn’t have to stop at the LCBO
in Thunder Bay, the provincial liquor store for more. I guess it was going to be the usual fun trip.
While we were paying the customs fee, we missed the
visitor center closing time by three minutes, and then had to go to Canadian
Tire in Thunder Bay to buy our fishing licences. As I waited for the others, my boredom led me
to the fishing tackle section and well, it cost me a further seventy dollars because
too many baits from Canadian manufacturers were looking intriguing. I was shopping my way north this year, or so
it seemed. I had done the same thing in
Duluth. Maybe I’d even catch a fish or
two on one of them. I always tend to use
the same baits so I probably wouldn’t.
This year’s trip had an odd feeling about it. It was like I was just going through the
motions. I didn’t have a real plan, no
feelings of some thing I needed to do, and no bucket list items. I circumnavigated the lake last year, which used
to be on my bucket list. I have caught
so many really big fish that I don’t really expect any more. So, we just went fishing, and right away on the
second day I caught a marginally decent pike.
This
35-inch northern that held lead for trophy for some of the week
There is a
herring gull colony and sometimes a common tern colony on this island or the
one a hundred yards away. I saw some
herring gulls, no terns and came back to see what I could see in a bay, but all
I flushed up was a merlin. It was
something.
Herring
gull
I was going to title this chapter the legend of
Seamonster Bay continues, except that nothing truly odd happened in
Seamonster Bay. For the legend to
continue, something odd or memorable had to happen, but nothing did. For some strange unexplained reason, four
eagles circled us as we came into fish coming back from our annual grilled cheese
run. I make grilled cheese in the old barbecue near the seemingly abandoned camp at Fungar Lake Outpost. This year, I lit the gas grill without
looking inside and as it heated up, a grill scraper melted and caught on fire, I
had to pull out liquefied plastic and stomp on it. We still had tasty grilled cheese sandwiches.
I began to start asking questions. Are seeing seamonsters, a vortex, or even
bigfoot prerequisites for having a memorable trip? Don’t ask questions you don’t want
answers to. We didn’t run into the game
warden. We didn’t have engine trouble. I didn’t hit a rock and I guess we really didn’t
catch any good fish. That’s okay. Mediocrity is the expected and the expected
is normal.
I did see a dorcas copper next to the cabin, a diminutive lifer butterfly I had never seen before, and then I saw a few others. That was about
as good as the trip up this end of the lake went.
Dorcas
copper
Common branded skipper
The wind
was, as usual, howling in our faces coming out of the Caribou Arm into the main
lake but it wasn’t that bad. I have
experienced much worse. We went back to
camp, the guys had beat us back and were both out of ice and diet coke for mix
but like good drinkers they made do. A
good drinker can improvise, and they did.
I was reminded of the first few years we were here when they had an
icehouse and harvested ice in the winter and kept it all summer covered in
sawdust. Brian, my dad’s best friend,
had to chip off ice for his cocktails making sure that no sawdust got mixed in
with the Canadian Club. Now it just
takes a trip to the ice machine.
It was a
couple of days later when I felt fate had again taken over my life when we were
heading up old, Lonebreast Bay.
I passed a single canoeist and we stopped to chat with him. Later when we decided to have lunch, after a
walleye fishing bonanza, we came to Lunch Island and found this same canoeist setting
up camp. “Hey, are one of you two
doctors?” Daniel, the canoeist
asked.
This old
guy, at least mid to upper seventies in age was on a twelve-day solo canoe
adventure and was about five days from getting picked up. He had scraped his shin a few days earlier
and it looked bad. It didn’t hurt him to
walk on it, but it was in that marginal area between inflamed and infected. If I had seen him in the Emergency Room, I
would have given him a shot of something but was it worth calling for a
seaplane to evacuate him?
I looked
again and marked the edges with a pen and told him if the redness expanded, he
needed to use his device he had with to signal for help and have them fly him
out. We ate and left, and then later
that evening, I began to think. Did I
run into him for a reason? Five days is
a long time and maybe I should try to help him. I found a bottle of antibiotics
I had at the cabin and then convinced a camp employee to drive me up in a
faster boat. It was a twenty-two-mile
round trip, but I think the older guy was worth it and hopefully if there is a
little infection, what I scrounged up will knock it down. It may not help but doing nothing wouldn’t
help either.
I worried
that no good deed ever goes unpunished, but we as people don’t seem to help out
the unfortunate as much as we should. Helping
a guy out in the bush with a bum leg is the least a doctor should do. Maybe I would get some credit from the local
fishing deity who would let me catch a large fish? I could only hope. Unfortunately, it was a different god that
paid me a visit the next day.
The Finns
have a pagan god who they say is in charge of the blueberry crop. Vainamoinen was said to have saved the
starving Finns one year by making the blueberries grow lush. It is said he is the deity one prays to when they
need something done. I’m not sure what
that means. His powers, though, are not
absolute and praying to him only has mixed success. The Swedes probably would have had one for blueberries
too except that at some point, they took the Norse gods, probably as some
missionary for Odin made it to Uppsala and everyone converted from the old
form of paganism to the new. The Norse
gods and goddesses don’t seem to care about the berry crop. In the process, blueberries lost out and the
old gods left. Maybe Vainamoinen also
left and went to Canada? On a small
island we call Burnt Over Lunch Island, the old Finnish blueberry god had
apparently found a home. I have never
seen such clumps of berries and our fishing trip turned quickly into a berry
trip. I have never filled a half of a
bucket so fast.
I’m not
sure if any of the First Nation bands worshiped a god of blueberries. If they or the European Canadians ever did,
the blueberry god would be worshiped every summer. It was odd how on a place of destruction,
such bounty grew.
I was
thinking of how a crazy bunch of canoeists accidentally burnt this island a few years
ago and now, the blueberry god returned with such a bounty of the tasty and
succulent small blue orbs. At camp we
made blueberry pancakes and then homemade ice cream with blueberries on top,
such is the extent of the roughing it that we partake here on Smoothrock Lake.
Vainamoinen
delivered me a bird I needed. Sometimes
we get what we need and not what we want.
I got a bird and blueberries, but big pike and walleyes…maybe next year.
I ran into the old canoer again. His leg was better, so I guess I helped him. He never made it to the Wendell Beckwith
cabin on a neighboring lake. The idea of
this cabin was like a little seed. Who
was Wendell Beckwith? Why do people make
a pilgrimage to such a forlorn spot in the middle of nowhere just to see a
cabin?
The Wendell Beckwith cabin from the internet, is it the House on the Rock in cabin form?
Also why did he call the island he
lived on, the center of the universe?
These are questions I need to know and visiting this cabin is now getting
added to my bucket list…maybe next year I’ll have more answers to this.
The last day was like a Seuss story. we caught no fish in No-fish Bay, and also
no fish in One-fish Corner, but we did catch a single fish in Two-fish Corner. One fish, two fish, blue fish, green fish or something like that. It was better but nothing to
brag about. We ended back up at
Seamonster Bay and stranger things began to happen. We were being watched by an eagle and a
herring gull expecting us to leave them some culled fish or something. When we didn’t, the gull got mad and took
things into its own control and started attacking my marker buoy. Then it started to tow it away before I
scared it off. It was an omen and possibly the Blueberry
god was giving me a not so subtle hint that it was time to stop fishing. Something like this would only happen in Seamonster Bay. we spotted an elusive pine marten and then called it a fishing trip and drove back.
So, there
it was, a week of fishing. A couple of
chances for birding but not much. We picked a
lot of berries, and we caught fish. The
pike-ometer showed 189 pike at trip’s end, my second lowest total in a week
ever here, finishing off the last ten years at over 3000 pike. A slow year for us is like a lifetime trip
for others. Everything is relative.
I also
heard of a strange and mysterious place nearby, do I have to even mention that
it got added to my bucket list? I now have
to figure out how to get to it but that would be a trip and a tale for another time. This trip was about Vainamoinen, or so it
seems. It seems blueberries were what we
caught the most of. This god is one that
gives a little and takes a a little and it was now time to go home. Hopefully, I had given enough.
What about
the Pike Championship? It wasn’t my year
this year. Dr. Jerry McCollough of Wadena
caught a 41-incher. It was his year to
win the ugliest trophy in angling and pet the beaver. The annual tradition for the winner while holding
his prize money.
Dr.
Jerry with the Falun Trophy behind him
I also helped
an old canoer. Vainamoinen provided and
yet, he didn’t help me out with the pike, but that is the way of this deity, he
is both good and bad, much like the Finnish and Canadian bush. There is always a bigger fish and, for me,
another fishing trip. Until next year…